Making a un-responsive throw from scratch on the lathe? advice?

Beyond looking at many different throws specs here for size / width / weight what specs are a good baseline to start from?

2.15 diameter
1.8 width
65 grams (+/-1)
Type C bearing
19mm response pads
What does gap width refer to?
Ideal off the shelf axle?

How thin are the walls typically before they reach the rim/rings? proportions of weight in the rims vs center? I’m sure this varies a lot from one throw to another but a ball park range could get me in the right direction.

I have a few weeks until I start working on it and I have some 7075 picked out for it already. Unfortunately I’m not that great with a yoyo having only a half dozen tricks so I wont know too much if it’s really good or just mediocre.

Thanks for any input =)

Gap width is the width between the closest inner wall, or you could say the distance between one response pad to the other if it’s flush.
Usually either M4 or M5. The longer the axle, the less likely for the tapped thread on the aluminum to strip.
I’ve heard 0.9 mm is still good for 6061 aluminum, 7075 should be able to go thinner. Proportion of the weight really depends on how you want it plays like, not necessarily one way is better than the other. Well if it was me and I have no idea, I’ll probably try maxing the rim weight first, then see if I like it or not.

That’s a little bit of the problem, I’m not really good enough to know what I “want” lol

Also I need to setup a design before I start making it and figuring weight / wall thickness is required before I even start cutting. .9 mm is a starting point.

I’m going to CAD some designs and apply 7075 then find predicted weight.

is the weight counted with axle and bearing installed?

As far as I know the weight is everything except the string, so you’ll have to add bearing, response pad, and axle weight.
Btw I have a few cad designs you could use for free, no catch. I haven’t calculated the weight yet but you can use it as a starting point, heck you could actually make it as it is. I haven’t had any resources to machine the design so if someone could prototype it that will be great. PM me if you’re interested.

Thanks for the info that it’s including everything except string.

I’m not very good at CAD to be honest and there isn’t a lot of prototyping going on here since this is going to be completely on the manual lathe… lots of hours. I realize a cnc is far more viable/faster but that’s not the purpose. I need to demonstrate the use of a manual lathe

I am not good with yoyo sizes in inches, I prefer millimeters, but I can tell you that a 65-66gram yoyo is a sweet-spot for most players.
The gap width refers to distance between the closest inner walls. The wider it is, the more unresponsive it becomes.
As for an axle, I prefer the M4x10mm axle when I am making yoyos. However, longer ones also work, I just wouldn’t go for anything shorter.

I’ve been modeling in CAD with the little free time I have. Got a bit of a design started but wanted to ask…

What is the normal depth of a 19mm slim response pad groove? I don’t want to rip my pads out to measure … lol

I have two feet of 2.5 inch diameter 7075 t6 ordered and on its way… instructor tried to convince me to use 6061 because it was cheaper but hell, I’m putting this much work into it… may as well.

0.9mm is NOT an ok wall thickness… you’re going to end up with a broken yoyo.

for 7075 you should be ok around ~1.5mm as a minimum wall thickness.

You’re asking for generalizations but there aren’t any… every yoyo is different, that’s literally the point of having different models. If you need a starting place, pick a yoyo you already like and use that as a starting point. You will have to measure some stuff, but if you can machine a yo-yo you can certainly use a caliper and micrometer.

Kyle

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Blanks cut and faced.

Looks good so far :smiley:

I’d listen to Kyo, he knows what he’s talking about!