Need help with Fixed Axle

Try adjusted the string tension tighter than you are used to.

I considered that, but I hear you should only do that if you are looping, as tightening the string will wear down the axle.

First off, what type of string are you using? Cotton or maybe cotton poly 50/50 is what you should use. If you are using one of those then it’s probably your string tension as mentioned before. Hope this helps!

I would start with trying type 10 cotton. Follow that up with changing your profile picture.

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A new string is always pretty unresponsive. You can increase your tension, it won’t wear your axle. Neutral tension is kind of unresponsive on a fixie. Keep at it and don’t get discouraged. It’s not as easy as an unresponsive yoyo. Learning how to get the most out of it is half ( or more) of the fun.

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Definitely use more string tension that you think you need. I’m using the YoYo Expert type 8 string now on my eH, after a few days of figuring things out, I’ve started making progress.

Enjoy the journey. Don’t rush it. Celebrate little successes.

Oh, I hate the type-8 they sell here. You’re putting yourself at a disadvantage using it. Too thin. Badly made. Inconsistent. Probably the worst cotton string I’ve ever used. The type-10 is good, though.

What kind do you like? (Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread)

I use %100 cotton yoyoexpert string. I’ll try increasing my string tension.

The type-10 sold here (100 packs only) is a very good string.

welcome to fixed axle. if you’re getting frustrated, you’re on the right path.

as has been said, definitely work with your string tension. the irving can be pretty unresponsive, but with the right string and string tension, it can also play nice and snappy. what kinds of tricks do you want to do? the irving is (imo) more geared toward doing sleeping fixed axle string tricks than it is toward stalls, regens, loops, and moons. same with the lovejoy. you can still do just about anything with it, but it can be harder to control and has a steeper learning curve for some things. type 10 is definitely the way to go for those narrow-axle tmbr’s.

above all though, stick with it. fixed axle is the ultimate equalizer in yo-yoing. there’s nowhere to hide, no shortcuts, and nothing for it but to stick with it and learn what works for you and your setup. i assure you, that irving is capable of some crazy stuff. stick it out, and it’ll reward you.

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Any tips on how to snap start?

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Do it one thousand times…repeat.

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Seems like this is the “secret” to all fixed axle, yoyo, and, life. I believe I’ve read in a Malcom Gladwell book that 10,000 hours of practice makes a master.

That said, the trick dumptrucks looks so easy when you watch Ed, but, watching me try to figure it out and you would think I’m doing a Hiroyuki Suzuki speed combo on a mighty flea while wearing a blindfold and Mickey Mouse gloves… But I love it!

All the advice so far has been spot on. It’s a different animal. I definitely struggled with the snap start. What I’m going to say is probably not what you want to hear, but I found that learning to snap start was 100 times easier with an Eh. After I learned on that yoyo, it became easier on all my fixies. I Know it represents a significant investment, but it really is worth it. It’s like learning to play guitar on a really nice instrument…everything is easier. That’s not to say that you won’t eventually get it; you will, but it’s my experience that you can accelerate the learning with an Eh. Now I can pretty much snap start any fixed yoyo…even if the string isn’t type 10 (which is better…by the way). Good luck.

Hahaha! I see what you did there.

I just started Fixed and had these same problems for a little while.

Responsiveness- When starting out, moar tension is better. Especially with a fresh string, do sidewinders until it’s so tight it won’t sleep, then back off a little. As soon as it’s not as responsive as you like, tighten the string more. Don’t worry about the axle, it will take a while to wear, and when it does, it will not be due to string tension.

Snap Starts- This is the most important trick. It just makes things easier. Remember with responsive you want to try and snap UP so the yoyo had plenty of slack. In unresponsive you snap down then bind, but not here. Like was said before, after the first 10,000 or so, you’ll start to get better at it.

Finally, Fixed is a lot of fun. Watch some of Drew and Ed’s videos, but not too many. They are probably witches that would have been burned at the stake a couple hundred years ago :smiley:

Where can I get type 10 string? (Now I use 100% cotton yoyoexpert string.)

It used to be one of the options in the drop down box for the YYE 100% cotton.
I don’t see it now though.
I also use type 10 and like it a lot.

I’m using thin 100% poly for fixies. I’ve heard the string could melt but for the past few years I’ve used poly for pretty much anything including 2a and I’ve never encountered one case where it melts. Maybe there are “different” polys out there, I don’t know.

If it gets unresponsive, previously I have used water but that may not last and not good for metal axle, wax… doesn’t really work, until I tried thin lube, it’s amazing, consistent response. I find that I had to lube the string every time/other time I change but no problem. And the string last pretty much like the usual bearing yoyo (dirty/frayed, no breaking).

The problem with using positive tension is, you can’t do kickflips.

Practice is key, but it doesn’t solve every problem, especially if the yoyo is just “absolutely” unresponsive. That happens sometimes especially in dry weather, you can’t simply practice that out. In 2a, an experienced player can get away with semi-unresponsive yoyos that a newer 2a player can’t loop with. However, there is a limit.

On the TMBR Irving I would spend time working on string tension and avoid any modifications to the axle. String tension is essential. The fixed axle tension is adjusted using the flying saucer/sleeping beauty across body loosens the string then away from the body on throw hand side tightens it back up. It takes a little while to break in a string for 1a. The sidewinder also works. I’ve noticed with some places like Mexico, Washington D.C. the humidity will cause the yo-yo to become more responsive. Good luck with the fixed axle and use 100% cotton. The snap start is fun. I had to watch Dale Myrberg for awhile to learn it.

The following is for the old school fixed axles - I would not use them on the TMBR Irving.

On the old fixed axles wax was used to smooth out the axle and increase sleep time. Then players would also use a thin strip of sand paper to roughen the axle back up occasionally. I haven’t ever needed to rough an axle back up. If the yo-yo hits the point of being to responsive I’ll switch to a new set. I only use the poly for 2a on the other fixed axles for 1a tricks it is always 100% cotton. I used poly on wood fixed axles for 2a at the 2015 Nats 2a, SRC, and BOCO State using old school techniques [i].

[/i]On poly and melting… Dazzling Dave melted one of my strings a few years back at Nats. In order to melt the string you really need to throw a bunch of around the worlds back to back. In 2a I only throw one or two atw and have never had a string melt during a show/contest.

The old fixed axles sold by Flores, Duncan, Cheerio, Royal, Russell always used 100% cotton.

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