YYJ Classic Needs Lubing Every Hour!

Just got the YYJ Classic (Responsive) today, and I’m quite disappointed with how unresponsive it is just 1hr after heavy lubing. I’m used to the OneStar (Sage) and for me, I like the following amount of responsiveness:

  1. Tight bind with the “snap start” for dead yoyos even for not very strong spins
  2. Tight bind for trapeze dismounts even when the string is a bit slack

Basically I want the yoyo to wind up even when it’s dying and the string is slack. Often the string will wrap up, but it won’t be “tight” - it’ll slip around the bearing and mess up the following throw. Sometimes after dismounting a trapeze, the yoyo will spin in the air and not start winding up.

Does anyone else have this problem with the YYJ Classic (responsive)? Looks like I’m going to be lubing it every hour of play!

Do you think there should be a measure of how responsive a yoyo is? Like if we say “This yoyo is responsive enough to do xyz trick/maneuver”.

Are you removing the shields to lube the bearing? If not you are not doing it right.

As for loose winds when the yoyo is barely spinning, that is normal. Also even a responsive yoyo will not always rewind reliably when spinning slowly. You need the spinning momentum to get a good wind, even with a fixed axle.

Might want to try thicker string

The bearings are already de-shielded out of the box. Just to be clear, you mean can I see the bearings in all their glory when I separate the two halves right? In that case yeah - they’re already de-shielded.

Thanks. I’ll order some thicker string and see how it changes. In the meantime, I’ve ordered a Lyn Fury and might also order a Kickside to get a more consistent response.

I’m just a bit disappointed with the YYJ Classic especially since it came highly recommended as a great responsive yoyo…

Do you see the individual balls and cages? It’s unusual that a bearing comes w/the shields off. The shield is a thin plate the normally covers the balls.

How to deshield a bearing
Note that the bearings shown here all have the shields on

How to Clean Your YoYo Bearing
This shows a bearing w/the shields off about half way through.

Yes, I could see each ball in its cage clearly. My unresponsive Classic came shielded, so I’m guessing I can tell the difference…

Next question then is what lube are you using. If you’re using YYJ or YYF thin lube that is part of the problem. You need a thicker lube like Yomega brain lube or even sewing machine or 3-in-1 oil. Yomega lube is the same as Synco Super Lube which is available at most any hardware store.

What Can I Use To Lube My Yoyo

Just double loop the string around the bearing, that’s what I typically do if someone tells me their yo-y isn’t responsive enough. It works.

Speed Beetles come with something outrageously thick packed in their bearings. They have a big gap for a 2A yo-yo, yet are extremely responsive and have low spin times. You could probably pack something like grease instead of adding lube. Just do it incrementally, which would be easy because YYJ thin bearings are de-shielded. Never tried this myself.

I had the same experience with the Classic in responsive mode. Plus the rims are very sharp; I rounded mine off and I only use it for unresponsive play now. For responsive 1A I just play fixed axle these days and I’m in love with it.

Use thicker lube. Vaseline works great. Also helps to heat the bearing up a little bit so it melts down in. Be careful though I think that bearing comes with a plastic cage.

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Any suggestions for fixed axle yoyos for 1a responsive? And are these butterfly shaped yoyos or “looping” types?

It might come to that. I’ll use vaseline as you suggest, if I have to!

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Well, since you asked ;D, it depends on what kind of tricks you’re after. My personal preference is butterfly-shaped wood because it’s good for throwing in looping tricks, no matter what the shape. If you want to do string tricks, I think the TMBR Sullivan has some good heft and has a great shape. For stalls, backhand balances, and shoot the moons, I think the Eh is perfect (except for the sharp rims).

If you’re picky with response (wink wink ;)) I’m warning you it can be hard to get it just right. Some axles are better than others because the material is variable and some I like to add beeswax lip balm to the string to get it perfect. OUT makes great stuff and I’m in love with the TMBR walnut woodthread axles. They work well for me.

Not sure I want to stand behind anything because of the complexity of string, wood type, and wood grain combinations. I can imagine it being finicky or frustrating for some.

The EH can indeed be a smidge sharp from time to time. Mine isn’t a museum piece, so I just took some sandpaper to it. Softened the rims just enough that it wasn’t scary. :slight_smile: