Please help! About the Onedrop 10-ball bearing :(

Actually, it is a weak bearing once I opened the package, I mean it spins weak maybe not breaking in? So I tried to clean and lube it and see if it get better but it can much worse… It’s not spinning well from the very beginning compare to YYJ Speed bearing :frowning:
And I don’t think the problem is the soap…

Od 10balls require pretty much no maintenance in my experience

Agreed. They start out quiet and smooth, they get noisy and smooth, you play through it and they go back to quiet again. All of my OD 10-balls have done this.

Yea mine too.

Next time break in the bearing :wink: All bearings require a certain amount of break in time.

Cleaning a bearing with the shields on is like taking a shower with your clothes on.
Mission Failed. :wink:

^^^^^^^^
Good analogy.

Chimera definitely nailed it on the head right here. Follow his response to a T and you should have absolutely no problems. Good luck.

Finally I cleaned it with toothpaste and it works VERY well!! It becomes very dry and can spins longer now. But the problem is how long should I wait for the breaking time?? How exactly you know the bearing is breaking?

I haven’t had an OD bearing yet that didn’t require some maintenance, so I’m not sure how you other guys got so lucky. And I’ve had 20 or more…

It’s “broken in” if it spins with a low-volume constant hiss (with no lube). If it gets screechy, it’s not broken in yet. Some people play through this, but I can’t help wondering “What the heck is causing that noise? That can’t be good.” At that point, the bearing usually goes into my pile of “Well, that’s another OD bearing to be replaced by a KK,” and have done with it. Occasionally I will clean these again and generally over time they eventually come around…

My favourite OD bearings are the ones that have come used, pre-broken-in. :wink:

First soap, now toothpaste??? Wat

I know right.

I am with GregP on this one. Every OneDrop 10-ball I have ever had started out quiet and then got very loud. I never have managed to play one of these long enough for the screeching to go away though. I wonder how long it takes?

I understand what “breaking in” is when the bearing is treated with a solid lacquer and the races need to essentially machine this lacquer down until tolerances are met. But with a wet-lubed bearing, under essentially no-load; what is it that needs to be broken in? And please do not say the “races” or some other internal part. High-quality precision bearings are manufactured to extremely high tolerances. There should be no physical break-in required for any of those parts.

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Exactly. What is being “broken in”?

My father told me to use toothpaste :stuck_out_tongue:
My home doesn’t’ have anything else to clean the bearing.
Anyway it’s good now, it spins for a long time but my skill isn’t good enough to handle it, always tilt!

Dishsoap works well against lube because it’s anti-grease , just don’t leave any suds. When the bearing is wet flick spin it with you fingers, if there are bubbles keep rinsing.

Should I lube my one drop 10 ball?? I discovered that once I lube it, it has much more friction and the spin time is less than ever! So what is the point of lubing if it isn’t help with spin time or stability???

Smoothness, quiet performance, and longevity of the bearing.

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i used to be a luber until i started getting more expensive bearings and throws and decided that the lube wasn’t helping… that was after i ruined a ceramic kon-kave bearing from over lubing it to where the balls just kinda slipped right out. don’t lube the thing unless your getting a screeching sound that is kinda like having bad brakes on a car. Though it does make the bearing i little quieter ( notice this does not work on shaqlers the things are as loud as well they are the loudest throws ever) it takes away from the spin time if you want long spins do not lube it very much maybe once a year if that. If you think about lubing and don’t want to pay big bucks try going for brass valve oil which you can find at most music stores just remember don’t touch the natural stuff it gets sticky in the heat go for the artificial it works better and is more consistent.

Whoops didn’t mean to thank you. I just wanted to point out that you aren’t supposed to lube ceramic bearings……. ::slight_smile:

BTW check out GregP’s post above.